dimensional accuracy

Attention over time

7-day rolling share of analyzed posts/comments mentioning this entity · 90 daily points ending 2026-09-01

Final complete day: 2026-09-01. Attention was 0.1% — this entity appeared in 19 of 17,943 analyzed posts/comments in the seven days ending that day (20 mentions).

Each point is a seven-day rolling window of complete UTC days; a point is comparable only when at least 100 analyzed posts or comments fall inside it. A day with no analyzed records counts as zero; missing coverage is marked and never shown as zero. The series ends at the latest complete analyzed day — it never extends into the current incomplete day. How attention is measured.

Recent mentions

1. 2026-09-01 14:40 UTCComment

   How do I enable the Enlightenment Era on my slicer to improve my dimensional accuracy?

2. 2026-09-01 05:36 UTCComment

   It really depends on what you need. It's always a tradeoff between time, strength, post processing and dimensional accuracy. Printers are bad at details on vertical faces, so if there's a part that needs to interface with something else try putting that part on the top surface, if multiple parts I'd probably split it. If it keeps failing I'd honestly also just split it up, dabbing some glue on is so much faster and easier than doing print after print and throwing away mountains of filament. Some post processing and you won't even be able to tell that it has been split up.

3. 2026-08-31 14:37 UTCComment

   If the model is too tight, even smaller imperfections can cause it to not fit correctly. So, before printing again, I suggest you to re-calibrate your filament: Also, re-do any calibration your machine offers that could affect dimensional accuracy, like tightening the belts, vibration tests, etc. Another thing is to print slower, for most parts going slower improves dimensional accuracy as it reduces artifacts. Some things like bridges benefit from going faster in some cases, but I don't think this is the case. The first image also shows a little layer separation. If that is the case, you may be suffering from warping, which is not that common with PLA but it can happen in larger prints or prints with thin walls like boxes. For that, make sure you clean your bed with dishwasher soap and try squishing a bit more to increase adhesion.

4. 2026-08-31 12:23 UTCPost

   AD5X 0.4mm nozzle — Best PLA/PETG settings for smooth prints and easy to remove supports? - Hey everyone, I’m fairly new to tuning my **Flashforge AD5X** and I’m looking for some recommended settings for **OrcaSlicer/Orca-Flashforge**. I’m using the **stock 0.4mm nozzle** and mainly print **PLA and PETG**. I’m trying to get: Smooth overall surface quality Clean walls and top/bottom surfaces Good dimensional accuracy Minimal stringing Good overhangs Supports that **come off easily without damaging the print** Good support interfaces without them fusing to the part If anyone has an AD5X, I’d really appreciate your recommended **OrcaSlicer settings/profiles** **Thanks**

5. 2026-08-27 23:50 UTCComment

   I'm not sure what went wrong here. I have the same print, but for the K2 Plus. I printed in HT-PLA, but otherwise I've had my CFS fully loaded for the last 4 months or so and have yet to experience anything like this. The only difference is that I have the drawers installed, but they don't seem to be giving any additional support since they slide nicely without binding. I also went a little overkill and printed it with 4 walls and I think about 20% gyroid infill. I did that though knowing the heavy CFS would be sitting on top and the the body of the printer getting relatively warm, especially when keeping the enclosure heated for things like Nylon. I would also want to check your dimensional accuracy. I know this could have been due to possible creep, but it doesn't look like the middle dovetail is properly mating with each side and there being some air gaps. When assembling mine, I had to put a good bit of force into getting the main support body pieces to slide together (which is a good thing).