fdm

Attention over time

7-day rolling share of analyzed posts/comments mentioning this entity · 90 daily points ending 2026-10-16

Final complete day: 2026-10-16. Attention was 0.5% — this entity appeared in 58 of 12,303 analyzed posts/comments in the seven days ending that day (89 mentions).

Each point is a seven-day rolling window of complete UTC days; a point is comparable only when at least 100 analyzed posts or comments fall inside it. A day with no analyzed records counts as zero; missing coverage is marked and never shown as zero. The series ends at the latest complete analyzed day — it never extends into the current incomplete day. How attention is measured.

Recent mentions

1. 2026-10-16 21:34 UTCComment

   I went to great lengths in an effort to get clear PETG parts. In my experience, it just isn't possible with FDM at any significant scale. This gem is small enough that... maybe... but it's going to be hindered by its design, which looks like it will have overhangs and/or supports, which will never print fully clear. I think my strategy here would be yes, to print slowly, with aligned rectilinear infill, with a single perimeter, and make the walls only two perimeters thick -- 0.9mm or so. It'll diffuse the light still, but less than with thicker walls.

2. 2026-10-16 21:12 UTCComment

   No, transparent FDM will always be more opaque.

3. 2026-10-16 20:33 UTCComment

   I own both and they each have their own use cases. I use my resin printer primarily for miniatures and high detail props. The detail and post processing for resin is hard to beat and for miniatures specifically, it’s nice to be able to print a whole plate full of minis in only a couple hours on my Saturn 4 Ultra. Also makes the end result feel a lot more professional and clean. But resin is an absolute headache to work with and requires a lot of set up for safety concerns which adds a lot of added cost and extra time. Everything else I use my FDM for. I’m still running an old heavily modded ender 3, which still prints incredibly well but is limited by its speed and its small build plate. It’s nice to not have an extreme set up to be able to run prints and be able to prototype different functional parts. You also get quite a lot of mileage out of a 1kg spool roll vs resin IMO and it’s a bit cheaper. The variety of materials you can use in a FDM also helps round out its utility. I think FDM suits more average consumers, especially with a lot of the coreXYZ style printers these days being able to hit very fine resolution but if you’re big into miniatures or fine detail models, resin is hard to beat. I only wish that there were better readily made compounds of resin with stronger properties that didn’t cost an arm and a leg.

4. 2026-10-16 15:13 UTCComment

   Search Printables and MakerWorld first for the exact ring name plus "case" or "sleeve", since a few people have usually modelled the common smart rings already. If nothing fits, a cover is an easy Tinkercad job: a hollow cylinder with the inner diameter set to your measured ring plus 0.2 to 0.3 mm of clearance, and walls around 1 to 1.2 mm. Measure with calipers rather than trusting a spec sheet, because that clearance is the difference between sliding on and cracking off. For a Lantern Corps style design, resin will hold the detail much better than FDM at this size, where a 0.4 mm nozzle makes everything look lumpy (a ring is a tiny object that makes every layer line look enormous). Whatever you print, sand or coat the inside so nothing rough sits against your skin or the ring.

5. 2026-10-16 15:02 UTCComment

   I mostly use my fdm for prototyping and tons of organization and holding tools. For that, the ease of fdm is just much nicer. Resin is just such a hassle. Having to wash and cure and dripping resin, on top of all the fumes you need to handle, is just a lot. If you need the detail of resin, for example for figurines, they are amazing.. but for my usecase, just too annoying.