drywall

Attention over time

7-day rolling share of analyzed posts/comments mentioning this entity · 90 daily points ending 2026-08-14

Final complete day: 2026-08-14. Attention was 2.4% — this entity appeared in 152 of 6,299 analyzed posts/comments in the seven days ending that day (209 mentions).

Each point is a seven-day rolling window of complete UTC days; a point is comparable only when at least 100 analyzed posts or comments fall inside it. A day with no analyzed records counts as zero; missing coverage is marked and never shown as zero. The series ends at the latest complete analyzed day — it never extends into the current incomplete day. How attention is measured.

Recent mentions

1. 2026-08-14 18:14 UTCPost

   For an unfinished basement "walls" is plywood OK? - I've got a section of my basement that is unfinished so the interior walls are simply the stone foundation. I want to mount some simple shelves and small bins to help organize tools, hardware, etc. and don't want to screw into the foundation. Is it reasonable to just throw up some 2 x 4 studs and make the walls out a basic plywood material? Looks don't matter and I just want to do this as quickly and inexpensively as possible, so drywall seems like overkill. Or maybe the plywood isn't even necessary and I just attach things directly to the studs? Thoughts? TIA

2. 2026-08-14 17:48 UTCPost

   How urgently does this sheathing need to be replaced? - We're renovating the kitchen in this house we just bought and after removing the drywall we found moldy sheathing. The spot under the kitchen is particularly bad, it's soft and soggy and you can poke your finger through. Our contractor said the repair needs to be from the outside, through the siding and that we can go ahead and finish the interior kitchen stuff and come back to the sheathing later. But how much later? Is this an emergency or can it wait a few months?

3. 2026-08-14 17:29 UTCPost

   Plumbing vent near surface of wall - I took down part of a plaster wall to remove some awful tile and look for water damage. I am planning on replacing the removed portion with drywall with some plywood backing to try and sit flush, but I noticed that my vent pipe is extending through the plaster, nearly to the surface of the wall. How can I deal with this? Do I need to reapply plaster over that portion of the wall? I’ve already replaced the galvanized steel supply lines with pex so I don’t have to break this wall open jksoon when I get the whole house replumbed,

4. 2026-08-14 16:12 UTCComment

   UPDATE FROM OP: I reached out to the GC and let him know, with pictures, just how messy this room is. I sent him pictures of the chunks of drywall left on ledges and floors, the crusty dusty window sills and baseboards, etc. I asked who was responsible for cleaning because I don't want the painting crew to end up gouging the floors with scaffolds or not have clean edges because of all of the dust on the surfaces. I also asked point blank about what the plan is for the plaster on the floors. Well, the painters are coming 8-8:30. The GC himself is coming out at 7 to clean first to make sure the room is ready for the painters. He's going to take a look at the floor in person, but he said he would make sure the plaster is removed, but he's being a little squishy with his wording. Like, he's saying "well, there was still adhesive and residue on the floor, so I'll make sure the plaster is gone, but you'll have to deal with the adhesive." I don't think there's a way to JUST get the plaster. I have a feeling he'll have to do a coarse grit sanding, which will take the plaster, yes, but will also take some of the adhesive residue. Thank you all for giving me the perspective and confidence to stand up for myself and my house to make sure it is restored the best way it can be.

5. 2026-08-14 15:26 UTCComment

   This is not enough information to estimate this from square footage alone. A large open room is very different from several bedrooms, a bathroom, or a wet bar. Costs will depend on your location, layout, insulation requirements, ceiling type, plumbing, electrical panel capacity, HVAC, egress windows, moisture problems, permits, drywall, and flooring. Draw a basic plan and get itemized quotes that separate framing, insulation, painting, and flooring. Subtract your material, tool, delivery, and disposal costs from those line items. That is your real DIY savings. Saving $20,000 to $30,000 may be possible, but it is only a guess without the full scope. Fix any moisture problems and confirm the required insulation system before framing.