floor

Attention over time

7-day rolling share of analyzed posts/comments mentioning this entity · 90 daily points ending 2026-08-14

Final complete day: 2026-08-14. Attention was 2.7% — this entity appeared in 172 of 6,299 analyzed posts/comments in the seven days ending that day (229 mentions).

Each point is a seven-day rolling window of complete UTC days; a point is comparable only when at least 100 analyzed posts or comments fall inside it. A day with no analyzed records counts as zero; missing coverage is marked and never shown as zero. The series ends at the latest complete analyzed day — it never extends into the current incomplete day. How attention is measured.

Recent mentions

1. 2026-08-14 23:36 UTCComment

   This was my first thought. All our doors are cut ~1" off the floors to bring return air into the rooms.

2. 2026-08-14 22:22 UTCPost

   Please help either my floor transition! - Please help. This is my first laminate install. Had some hiccups but overall things went well. Until it came time to put in the floor transitions. I have 3 rooms that already had vinyl faux wood flooring and I didn’t want to rip it up because it matched the color enough. The thing is, that flooring is slightly thinner than my laminate. I got my flooring from Lowe’s and the matching transitions don’t fit with just the T cap and when I put the reducer on it leaves a hump in the transition that looks like I installed a stair nose. I cannot figure out how to install this transition to compensate for the difference without OVER-compensating for it. Photo below. Transition with Reducer

3. 2026-08-14 21:23 UTCComment

   You should go with underlayment as mentioned already, and be sure to add a vapor barrier as well. It will help mitigate all the vapor/moisture that is being emitted by the concrete. For workout equipment, you should always place a mat underneath it; that's best practice to make sure your floors don't get totally destroyed by the continuous rocking. LVP might be your best option in the basement, especially since it's still emitting moisture. A waterproof laminate (even if it is marketed as waterproof) will absorb humidity and will be damaged or fail over time. I have a good recommendation for you, but to be totally transparent, I work for the company that manufactures it, so I have a bias. But, by the sounds of it, this product is exactly what you're looking for, and if you have the budget for it, I 100000% recommend it. It's in the realm of LVPs, but it performs 100X better than all of them, and it's 100% PVC, so it will be a lot better for your home - no toxins, formaldehyde, ultra-low emissions, etc. And it's super durable; we recommend this for busy homes and light commercial spaces. Hope this helps!

4. 2026-08-14 17:14 UTCPost

   Drylock on concrete shower floor - Tldr previous owner built this utility shower in the basement. It's just concrete block walls, slab floor and drywall ceiling. All painted with latex paint. The painted floor was nasty so I sanded it down and painted over it with drylock. Guy at big box store suggested it. Reading into it now, it looks like this might not work. Candidly I don't mind trying it and if it start peeling or whatever stripping it and doing something else. Long term I want to tile. But this was just a 6-12 month solution. I just don't want to damage the house. Thoughts? Thank you!

5. 2026-08-14 16:12 UTCComment

   UPDATE FROM OP: I reached out to the GC and let him know, with pictures, just how messy this room is. I sent him pictures of the chunks of drywall left on ledges and floors, the crusty dusty window sills and baseboards, etc. I asked who was responsible for cleaning because I don't want the painting crew to end up gouging the floors with scaffolds or not have clean edges because of all of the dust on the surfaces. I also asked point blank about what the plan is for the plaster on the floors. Well, the painters are coming 8-8:30. The GC himself is coming out at 7 to clean first to make sure the room is ready for the painters. He's going to take a look at the floor in person, but he said he would make sure the plaster is removed, but he's being a little squishy with his wording. Like, he's saying "well, there was still adhesive and residue on the floor, so I'll make sure the plaster is gone, but you'll have to deal with the adhesive." I don't think there's a way to JUST get the plaster. I have a feeling he'll have to do a coarse grit sanding, which will take the plaster, yes, but will also take some of the adhesive residue. Thank you all for giving me the perspective and confidence to stand up for myself and my house to make sure it is restored the best way it can be.