remote

Attention over time

7-day rolling share of analyzed posts/comments mentioning this entity · 90 daily points ending 2026-08-14

Final complete day: 2026-08-14. Attention was 0.6% — this entity appeared in 37 of 6,299 analyzed posts/comments in the seven days ending that day (86 mentions).

Each point is a seven-day rolling window of complete UTC days; a point is comparable only when at least 100 analyzed posts or comments fall inside it. A day with no analyzed records counts as zero; missing coverage is marked and never shown as zero. The series ends at the latest complete analyzed day — it never extends into the current incomplete day. How attention is measured.

Recent mentions

1. 2026-08-14 17:45 UTCComment

   400 is just the line where makeup air is required, it's not a prohibition against more powerful extractors. I'd rather have more than you you think is necessary but variable speed so there's the option to move more air if necessary. I'd definitely look into a setup with a remote, inline fan separate from the hood. You have a much more powerful fan and it's quieter. Another consideration is that you probably want at least a 8" duct and vent.

2. 2026-08-14 17:01 UTCComment

   I've got a 1979 house with a (very) air-leaky 16-foot long set of frameless bifold doors in a kitchen + living room 30something feel long by 20orso feet wide. Adjacent to the kitchen is the laundry room with a 14" high soft plastic flappy doggie door. I was not concerned about makeup air as I live in a colander. I upgraded from an (alleged, never worked well but looked Euro-cool) 700CFM hood (6" ducting) to a 1200 CFM hood (8" ducting) about 7 years ago. I over sized the hood so as to keep it higher off the induction cook top to ensure performance. It's a twin blower 42" wall mount ZLINE Professional Series. I LOVE IT. If I had an attic I'd have gotten a remote (is that the wording) blower to keep the noise down, but regardless this setup has worked well for us over the years keeping smells, smoke, heat and grease out of everywhere else.

3. 2026-08-13 20:46 UTCComment

   Can't see the photos, but gaps between headrails usually mean the shades were measured individually instead of as one unit, and at $5k I'd expect them tight to each other and the trim. You haven't paid yet, so I'd put the gaps and the broken remote in one written list and send it before any money moves.

4. 2026-08-13 14:45 UTCComment

   I requested that set up. He said it was normal and people do it all the time. Within one frame, It is one large window with two smaller windows that open on either side. And I wanted the ability to open the window on the outer side without having to have all of the blinds open. So I knew it would create a small gap between the two shades but I was okay with that. I was never provided the measurements so i am unsure what they measured vs what was ordered vs what i actually received. I am waiting to hear from them about the remote and charger that arrived broken and the measurements and the payment.

5. 2026-08-13 02:59 UTCPost

   LED strip light help with jumping spaces - I bought a 16 ft Armacost RibbonFlex Home 421501 tunable-white LED tape light kit and aluminum channels with diffusers for a built-in shelf that wraps around my office. The kit is 24V tunable white. I plan to use a second identical kit for the other wall and would like to control both kits with one remote if possible. I installed one side of the built-in successfully. The other wall has two longer gaps ("jumps") that I'm not sure how to handle. There are two floating shelves about 3 ft above the built-in. The shelves are about 2 ft apart and are at the same height. My planned layout is: SHELF 1 ================= | | JUMP #1 | SHELF 2 ================= | | JUMP #2 (~3–4 ft) | BUILT-IN ================================= ^ | start of LED strip The goal is to have **three separate LED strip sections connected by two wire jumps**: 1. **LED strip on Shelf 1** 2. **Jump #1** from Shelf 1 to Shelf 2 3. **Jump #2** from Shelf 2 down to the built-in 4. **LED strip continues along the built-in** I want to avoid soldering if possible. I'm also not sure how comfortable I am with putting holes in the wall. I would be fine with using **white low-voltage wire visibly along the wall** if that's a reasonable approach. The 421501 kit includes wire-lead connectors, but the included leads are short, and the pre-made jumpers I've found are only about 2 ft long. I need a couple of longer custom-length jumps. **What is the correct way to make these longer jumps with this particular Armacost 421501 strip?** Specifically, I'm trying to determine: * What type/gauge of wire should I use? * Can I use the included Armacost wire-lead connectors and splice in longer wire? * Are there solderless connectors or other simple connectors that would work? * Is there anything I need to consider because this is 24V tunable-white rather than a single-color strip? * Is there a better way to route the two jumps that I'm overlooking? I can provide additional information if there's anything important I'm missing. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.